Brief Summary of Build
- This is the Eredin build I've used last season to reach Rank 20 and then reaching almost 4.1K MMR. I beleive this deck is quite flexible, it has multiple win conditions, Hailstorm against swarm decks and Minura against big units, the Drowners help both. I will write a general guide and some tips if you guys are interested.
Why is Eredin doing so bad these days?
The main reason is that the core cards Eredin (and Wild Hunt) relies on have been left behind during the bronze power increase of the last few patches. The worst case of this is the Wild Hunt Hound which at 4 pts is such a low tempo play (4 + 2 frost to be exact), if you don't choose the right spots to do it, you might fall back dangerously in tempo, and as a result, down a card. The hound definitely needs a boost from the devs. Drowner is also starting to fall behind other bronzes, but It's still a useful card to control the enemy board, so that's why I included it here. Another problem is that Wild Hunt lacks proactive plays, almost all of the cards are reactive, therefore an Eredin deck suffers on the blue coin gointg first, and desperately needs to start second. (More on this later..)
The main idea behind the deck
This is a reactive, long round, attrition type deck with either Miruna or Hailstorm being the finishers, or sometimes both. Because of the low tempo of Eredin decks, I had to include some high tempo plays to counter this, mainly Toad Prince and Iris, and Ozzrel in the later rounds. Toad and Ozzrel are also good in a short round. I beleive every deck needs at least two ways for direct removal, this is why Kayran and Vaedermakar is included, the latter can also spawn frost, which means you have five ways to create frost if needed, hard to remove all of them. Slyzard and Recon is for thinning.
My card choices:
Miruna : Miruna is a high risk/high reward type of card, which can give you incredible point swings and win you matches otherwise not possible. For example stealing a 20 pt Greatsword is a 44 point play (-20 + 20 + 4) on your part. Because of her timer she's usually your second to last play, make sure you have a card in hand when you play her, or that your opponent has two cards and needs to play both to catch up. Also card advantage or having the last say is quite important with this card.
- -Miruna and Drowner: If your last two cards are Miruna and a Drowner and you have last say, you can steal the big finisher (like Nova) your opponent saved as their last play. Just play Miruna and then move the big unit into the opposite row.
- -Miruna and Frightener: Against certain decks Minura might not have a suitable target to steal. You can steal Frightener back with her in this case, this is also good when you desperately want to play your spy and draw in the final round, but you wouldn't do it otherwise because giving 13 pts to the opponent is risky.
- -In rare cases you can also do this in RD2 when you lost RD1 and you want to stop your opponent from bleeding you. Play Succubus, your opponent will likely pass, and then play Frightener. For this to work you'll need to be up a card and have some frost ticking so you'll end up ahead after frightener returns and on even cards.
- -Miruna and Iris: If you have both of them in RD3 and a sure (preferably insta-kill) way to kill Iris, play Miruna and then play Iris. Iris will buff Miruna when she dies and a 9 strenght Miruna is much harder to remove than otherwise.
- -Miruna and Hailstorm: This is not a combo, rather a problem you'll face if you have both in RD3 and the opponent row stacked heavily. If there's a big gold on the row, you're in luck because Hailstorm won't damage that and Miruna will steal it. If not, then you'll need to calculate. If the unit is really big then most of the time the swing Miruna provides will be bigger than any Hailstorm, although there were cases against for example Handbuff Nilfgard that Hailstorm was the better option and Miruna was put on a different row.
- -Miruna and Ozzrel: If you're certain that your opponent has a way to kill Miruna in his hand (Mandrake, Viper Witchers, etc.) you can sacrifice her, before playing Ozzrel. They almost always use the card to take down Miruna, but they just removed a 4 strength unit while Ozzrel gets full value.
Caranthir Ar-Feiniel: Useful gold to spawn a frost and move a unit into it, the movement mechanic can be used for several combos, for example placing a Rider and then playing Caranthir, or align a row for Hailstorm.
Kayran: Simple, direct removal card, a 19 point play if you eat a 7 with it. Can eat irritating golds like Sabbath or engines like Greatswords, Hawker Smuggler or Dragoon. Often needs a little help from frost or damaging cards like Drowners or Eredin into Warrior to be able to consume, so it's better to use him in the earlier rounds.
Ge'els: Extremely useful card which let's you have access to pivotal Golds or Silvers, increases the deck's consistency by a lot. Not only that he can pull a gold or silver for you, he moves the other card to the top of your deck, meaning you can plan ahead. With proper thinning Geels can make sure you'll have access to all of your golds and silvers most of the time. In rare cases you have to roll the dice with him when there are multiple gold/silver choices and you desperately need something. Take every choice into account before doing that.
Merigold's Hailstorm: This card once defined the meta, but got left behind when it didn't damage golds anymore and you couldn't extract enough value with it. It makes a return because of the power creep of the bronzes, but it still remains a risky card which needs planning and aligning. Hailstorm rounds up when it damages and it doesn't damage golds. A relatively quick way to calculate it's damage is:
-The total Power of a row( -gold power), add the number of odd strenght units on that row. Then, finally, divide by 2.
-Combos really well with Drowners, Frightener and Caranthir.
Iris von Everec: A staple in every Eredin deck, Iris is 25 point boost, provided you have five units and a way to kill it. Sometimes 4 units is enough, for example in a late round. If you have her in your hand you need to plan accordingly. Here are the ways to take down Iris:
- -The insta-kill: Play it into frost opposite of a Rider. This is the preferred way as the opponent can't react.
- -Drowning kill: Play her next to frost and then use a Drowner. The opponent can react here however.
- -Eredin\Warrior kill: Can be either in frost or not, use Eredin to spawn a Warrior to take her down.
- -Vaedermakar\Kayran kill: If Iris got buffed somehow you can still take her down with Vaedermakar or Kayran.
- -Double Drowner kill: If you have no frost but two drowners, you can pull Iris twice with drowners, which will kill her. The opponent can react twice so it's not the preferred way :)
Toad Prince: Useful card to thin and move your deck forward. Usually I eat a Rider(16pts) I don't need, or a Drowner, but Toad can also eat dead cards in your hand, like Hounds without any frost to spawn, or a Slyzard with nothing to pull. He can also eat Frightener for a 19 point play, however only do this if you don't need the card advantage or it's must for Ozzrel to have Frightener in the graveyard. Combos really well with Geels, as you'll know what Geels put on the top of the deck for Toad to draw, or if you play Toad before it might lessen the choices for Geels.
Ozzrel : Often used as one of your finishers in RD3 to eat a spy, which is a 18 point play. Extremely useful against Skellige to eat their biggest unit before it's resurrected and can be used against other factions to deny the resurrection of their smaller but important cards, if you don't need the big point play.
Vaedermakar: Very flexible card and better than Nithral because he's more consistent, and not conditional. I usually use him to take down engine cards, and with thunder he can take down most of them easily. He can spawn frost if needed.
Frightener: Frightener is clearly not the best spy in the game, however he works really well in this deck for several reasons. He can be played into frost, he can align units for Hailstorm, you will need the card advantage for Miruna, and Miruna can actually steal back Frightener if you're up against a deck where there's nothing worth to steal.
Wild Hunt Hound: The success of Eredin decks aren inherently tied with this card, and at the moment it seriously lacks tempo. It's a 6 point play after the first turn, and it needs several turns to reach the normal bronze value. This is why we need long rounds and Riders. It's a good idea to bring out your second hound with Eredin +Navigator as this gives you plenty of thinning and necessary tempo.
Biting Frost: Not much to say here, except that you should always keep in mind how much damage your frosts will do in the current turn, since you'll need to add this to your current play.
Wild Hunt Rider: A card that did get the necessary buffs in recent patches and therefore one of the better wild hunt units. It punishes your opponent if he rowstack into your first frost heavily, it's not easy to remove (they will try though) and it allows you to insta-kill Iris when you have the setup.
Drowner: In itself Drowner is just a conditional 11 point play, which is below average. However it's excellent to control your opponent' board, moving Longships, Greatswords or Vran Warriors away (a quick tip, the moved card will always go on the right side of the moved row, therefore making a Longship ticking on nothing). It's also great to move units into weather if it's empty, kill smaller units, and to set up Hailstorm.
Slyzard: Great card to thin your deck, but you need to plan ahead, for example playing all your hounds and riders in RD1 and then drawing a Slyzard is a dead draw, should be avoided. Best to play a variety of bronze units in RD1 so Slyzard can pull something.
Reconnaissance: Useful card to thin your deck while giving you options.
Mulligan: Mulligan away biting frosts. If you don't have any frosts in hand and you didn't draw after the first two mulligans it's probably safer to not use your third mulligan. Keep Slyzard in removal-heavy matchups (example: Henselt), otherwise you can mulligan it. If you have Iris in hand you should keep a Rider, or preferably two if you expect the first one to be taken down easily. If you have Hailstorm in hand keep 1-2 Drowners. Don't worry if you have all your golds in hand, Geels will be still be valuable to fish for your important silvers.
Drypass round 1 on the blue coin. There are exceptions when you shouldn't do this in certain matchups I might detail later (Axeman, Brouver's Wardancer), but otherwise this is the general course for Eredin because almost all your plays are reactive. One general exception I can think of is when your hand is full with Bronzes with no silvers/golds, or unusable ones in RD1 (Ozzrell). In this case, you have to thin your deck, using Eredin into Navigator to pull the second hound, using recon, slyzard if possible before passing.
On the red coin, the aim is to set up your frosts and thin your deck while not going down more than one card for the win. Put down a frost on your opponent's unit, if he start to rowstack and play into the frost, punish him with your Riders. If not then put down your second frost after a few turns, preferably using Eredin's Navigator to pull out the second hound for extra thinning. If you have Iris try to setup the scenario of having 5 units on the board and putting Iris into a frost opposite of a rider (with no 1-3 str units in it) for a big boost. If the round is long is enough to make round 2 / 3 really short, use your Hailstrom here.
If your opponent has carry-over (Bran, Wardancers, etc.), you can't go down a card for the win, try to make sure you're able to catch-up in one card after he plays. This won't be easy, but you can make some tempo plays like Eredin pulling second Rider/Hound, Kayran, or Toad eating a Bronze, or using Caranthir after your first Hound.
If you won round 1, there's no reason at all to play round 2. You need a long round 3, preferably with card advantage or having the last say. Drypass to gain back your card or to go one card up.
If you lost round 1, for example after dry-passing round 1, round 2 will be similar to round 1 on the red coin. The longer the opponent tries to bleed you, the more frosts you need to apply, you won't have any use for them in a short round. Try to save Ozzrell and Miruna for round 3 if you can. As for Hailstorm, if round 2 is long to make round 3 short, use it here instead, otherwise keep it for a long round 3.
You should arrive in this round at least on even cards and preferably having last say. If the round is long then setup your frosts early, and try to align a nice Hailstorm (often the opponent will do that for you as they rowstack when they see frost). Miruna is your second to last play, if the opponent has last say he'll have two cards to react with, if not then he'll have one, which is often their big point finisher. Generally your last card next to Miruna is Ozzrel, sometimes it can be a Drowner (can steal your opponents big finisher by pulling it into Miruna's row, but this is very risky!), or it can be Hailstorm, in this case do take the time to calculate (described above.) Miruna will be taken down a lot of times, but you should expect this as this is a card that alone can decide games if it goes unanswered. Even if this happens, at least the opponent couldn't use his Mandrake/Viper Witcher/Swordmaster on a big unit he wanted to and Ozzrel will be safe.
Vaedermakar can be replaced with Nithral, but then you need to add other wild hunt units as well, a Navigator instead of Slyzard or Recon, or perhaps a Warrior.. my opinion is that is not worth it, Nithral is only good in RD1 and you'll lose one access to frost.
I wouldn't change Merigold's Hailstorm for anything, but some people prefer Lacerate instead, if you make this change than I suggest Triss: Telekinesis instead of Caranthir, so you'll have access to at least one Lacerate play and still have the option to frost.
Like this Deck?
Let us know what you think about this deck by giving it a rating!